黑料不打烊

Paris map. .

In the city that invented the flâneur, a walk through the streets of Paris is a cultural experience in itself. At every turn, the city gives you renowned art museums, contemporary art galleries, magnificent architecture, and unforgettable views. And with FIAC opening this week, there couldn’t be a better time to discover what the city has to offer. Whether you’re traveling by foot, taxicab, métro, or moped, here’s what you can find, art-wise, in each of the vibrant city sectors of Paris.

Vincent Mauger, Les injonctions paradoxales, 2016. Courtesy Vincent Mauger and Galerie Bertrand Grimont. Photo: Marc Domage.

1er. In the center of the city lies the mother of all art museums: the Louvre. Need we say more? This week, courtesy of FIAC’s hors les murs programming, the Jardin des Tuileries will feature sculptures and outdoor works from 18 contemporary artists, like Jean Prouvé, Mircea Cantor, and Vincent Mauger.

2ème. The compact second arrondissement doesn’t have an art scene to speak of, but is home to the few remaining classic “arcades” that Walter Benjamin wrote of in his unfinished, final opus, which many contemporary artists reference.

3ème. Paris’s gallery scene is most firmly entrenched in the Marais district. On vernissage nights, the streets are filled with chic gallery-goers and art collectors, traveling between the nearly 100 galleries here. Some of the most notable include international spaces like Galerie Perrotin, Galerie Karsten Greve, and Galerie Almine Rech, along with great local Parisian spaces like Galerie Anne Barrault, Galerie Odile Ouizeman, and Galerie Les Filles du Calvaire.

Rene虂 Magritte, La Lampe philosophique, 1936, oil on canvas, 46 x 55 cm. Private Collection. © Adagp, Paris 2016, © Photothe虁que R. Magritte / BI, Adagp, Paris, 2016.

4ème. Beaubourg is home to one of Paris’s most striking architectural marvels and its leading contemporary art museum: the Centre Pompidou, now celebrating its 40th anniversary. Surrealists rule at the museum right now, with current exhibitions including an historic reappraisal of Rene Magritte and a tribute to André Breton. Added Surrealist bonus: visit nearby Place des Vosges for a de Chirico-like architectural experience.

Etel Adnan, Untitled, 2012, Oil on canvas, 32x41cm, Courtesy Private Collection Andre虂e Sfeir-Semler.

5ème. Across the river, the fifth arrondissement holds the Jardin des Plantes, the Pantheon, and the earliest relics of Paris’s Roman past in the Arena of Lutèce. For art, visit the Institut du monde Arabe for its fine collection of Islamic calligraphy, manuscripts, instruments, mosaics, and modern and contemporary art, and its temporary exhibitions, particularly the recently opened solo show of Etel Adnan.

6ème. In the spider web of streets in the Saint Germain district, one will find many contemporary art and design galleries, with the busy Taschen bookstore at the axis. Make stops at Kamel Mennour, Galerie Georges-Philippe & Nathalie Vallois, and Jousse Entreprise, for architecture and design.

7ème. The 7th arrondissement is home to the must-see Musée d’Orsay, with the world’s preeminent collection of Impressionists and Post-Impressionists, including masterworks by Cezanne, Van Gogh, Gauguin, Manet, and many others.

Installation view, Paris, 18th Prix Fondation d'entreprise Ricard. Photo: Aurélien Mole / Fondation d'entreprise Ricard.

8ème. This week, the belle-époque masterpiece Grand Palais hosts the international contemporary art fair FIAC under its glass-and-iron dome. On the nearby quai, at the Pont Alexandre III, there is Slick art fair, while further north, near Parc de Monceau, you can find the Asia Now Art Fair. Gagosian’s Paris space is also in the 8th, just off the Champs-Élysées, and, near Place de la Concorde, there is the Fondation d’Entreprise Ricard, which is currently celebrating the eight finalists for its annual prize for contemporary art.

9ème. The spectacular Galeries Lafayette is not only for luxury shopping, it also has a contemporary art gallery, aptly named Galerie des Galeries. Currently on: a solo exhibition of works by German artist Hans Peter Feldmann.

FESTIVAL FORMULA BULA #4 – 30 September – 2 October, 2016. © J. Brody / Point Éphémère, 2016.

10ème. One of the hippest quartiers in Paris, with trendy bars and restaurants lining the Canal Saint Martin, for a while, a few galleries operated outposts in the 10th, Chantal Crousel and Dominique Fiat among them. The best place to simultaneously experience art and nightlife is at Point Éphémère – a cultural center / exhibition space / bar / music hall right on the water.

11ème. The 11th has a smattering of galleries around Bastille and along Boulevarde de Belleville, and is also home to Connaissance Art Contemporain, a non-profit organization that fosters awareness of contemporary art through lectures, workshops, guided tours of Paris’s galleries, and weekend trips to other art cities, like Berlin and Bilbao.

Studio of Hervé Di Rosa, Paris, 2016. Photo: © Marc Domage.

12ème. La Maison Rouge, housed in a disused factory built around a red house, hosts solo and themed exhibitions of contemporary art in its 1,300 square-meter space. The galleries are currently devoted to the collection of artist Hervé Di Rosa in an exhibition opening this weekend.

13ème. In the shadow of the impressive Bibliothèque Nationale lays the Louise Weiss gallery district in the 13th, home to contemporary galleries like Air de Paris, Laurent Godin, and Triple V-Projets.

Fondation Cartier pour l'art contemporain, designed by architect Jean Nouvel. Photo: .

14ème. The 14th is home to the Jean Nouvel-designed Fondation Cartier, which is devoted to exhibitions of contemporary art, as well as the Fondation Henri Cartier-Bresson, which is devoted to the famed photographer.

15ème. Villa Vassilieff is a new public art center, exhibition space, and artist residency in Paris – it opened in February of this year – which is run by Bétonsalon Center for art and research. It is currently showing a group exhibition curated by artist Jason Wee, and, on Saturdays, from October to December, a “contemporary art sitcom airing live,” created by Gabriel Gauthier and Elsa Michaud.

Site-specific installation by Carlos Cruz-Diez at the Palais d’Iéna © Atelier Cruz-Diez 2016 and Palais d’Iéna.

16ème. The upscale 16th arrondissement is rich in art venues: the Musée d’Art moderne de la Ville de Paris (MAM), the Palais de Tokyo, Fondation Louis Vuitton, and others. Right now, this is the arrondissement to visit for the unique, eccentric, and site-specific art experience – Tino Sehgal is at the Palais de Tokyo, Eva & Adele are at the MAM, and Carlos Cruz-Diez presents a spellbinding installation at the Palais d’Iéna (October 16-25). The 16th is also in on the art fair game this week: presenting Paris Internationale, with an impressive lineup of 61 galleries and project spaces from 21 countries.

17ème. The 17th represents the real Paris vie quotidienne. Here, a technical training school doubles as a street art museum: Art 42, which opened this month, features the collection of Nicolas Laugero-Lasserre, with works by Banksy, Blu, Evol, Vhils, Jonone and many others represented.

18ème. On your way up the hill for the spectacular views from the Sacré Coeur, stop in to the Kadist Art Foundation. It is currently showing works by Moshekwa Langa and Nora Schultz, the culmination of a residency at Kadist in Paris for both artists.

Mark Geffriaud, Deux mille quinze, instllation view, frac i虃le-de-france, le plateau, Paris, 2016. © Mark Geffriaud. Photo: Martin Argyroglo.

19ème. Tucked away on an unassuming side street in the 19th arrondissement is one of the best spaces for contemporary art in Paris: the Frac Île de France – Le Plateau. A collecting institution, the Frac works with leading curators and artists on some of the most inventive exhibitions to be found in the city. A short walk away is the always-experimental Bugada & Cargnel – one of the top contemporary art galleries in Paris.

20ème. The Belleville gallery district is home to Paris’s exciting emerging art scene. No Paris art tour is complete without a trip out to visit Galerie Jocelyn Wolff, Shanaynay, Crèvecoeur, Marcelle Alix, and more. 

—Natalie Hegert